Table of Contents:
THE BEST PEDAL SYSTEM FOR ROAD CYCLING?
Video taken from the channel: Francis Cade
What Type Of Road Bike Pedals Are Best? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech
Video taken from the channel: GCN Tech
Six of the best Clipless Pedals Click in for a more efficient ride
Video taken from the channel: road.cc
10 Best Road Bike Pedals 2019
Video taken from the channel: Ezvid Wiki
Best Road Bike Pedals 2020
Video taken from the channel: Sweet Hoot
Best Road Bike Pedals 2020
Video taken from the channel: OutdoorPicked
What’s the best Pedal System for Road Cycling? BikeFitTuesdays
Video taken from the channel: Francis Cade
The 10 Best Cycling Pedals of 2020 Make sure your ride has the perfect pedals. By. Verywell Fit Editors. We exhaustively research and recommend a broad range of products and ultimately make a curated list of recommendations from writers with subject-matter expertise in every product category we cover.
hepingjiangenbo Bike Pedals Road Bike Pedals Road Pedals Carbon Fiber Road Cycling Pedals with Cleat Compatible with Look KEO Structure ZP-110 (Black) BESTSELLER NO. 4 in 2020 Material of Bike Pedal: [body] carbon composite,30% Chopped carbon fiber,70% PA6.The best road bike pedals in 2020. Shimano M520 SPD: £35 / $48 / AU$61.
Shimano 5800 SPD-SL / PD-R7000: £110 / $150 / AU$189. Time XPro 10: £150 / $195 / AU$199.95. Look Keo 2 Max: £79.99 / $114.99 / AU$153.99.
Speedplay Zero Stainless: £199.99 / $214 / AU$384.99.The mountain bike experts at The Adventure Junkies pulled together a comprehensive list of the best mountain bike flat pedals on the market, covering a variety of materials, features, and price tags so you are sure to find the Best Mountain Bike Flat Pedals of 2020. Fiona Morris. Mountain Biking Gear.
Updated on May 21, 2020.PEDALS: Venzo Sealed Cycling Road Bike Bicycle Clipless Pedals Look Keo Compatible, Injection engineering thermoplastic body AXLE CNC-machined Cr-Mo (cartridge) BEARING LSL bushing & sealed Weight 255 g/pair, Size: 83 x 94 mm. Axle thread: 9/16″.
The 5 Best Road Bike Pedals – [2020 Reviews] High-Tech Road Biking Pedal Designs That Improve Performance And Riding Form. January 26, 2020. Have a look at our recommendations for the top-rated and best road bike pedals. Also see our buying guide, How To Choose The Best Road Bike Pedals.TopProReviews analyzes and compares all road bike pedals of 2020.
You can easily compare and choose from the 10 best road bike pedals for you.Bike Perfect is supported by its audience. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Learn more. Home; Features; Best pedals for MTB 2020: our pick of the 10 best mountain bike pedals you can buy this year.Shimano Xtr Race Pd-M9000 offers the best features with proven performance.
It is perfect for riding smoothly in almost every season. It is ultra-light and will provide you with maximum support and comfort. All these features make this pedals one of the best mtb flat pedals or best flat pedals or best mtb pedals.The pedal stroke is more efficient as well, placed as close to the axis of rotation as possible.
And finally, the traditional factors of platform size, stiffness and pedal durability all still apply. We took the time to give you the actual weight, thickness, and size of each pedal. Related Reading: Best Mountain Bike Clipless Pedals.To help you make the decision as to what type of pedal could assist you in your mountain biking, we have put together our list of the top 10 best mountain bike pedals in 2020 for you to consider. Related: Mountain bike tires & MB lights.
View The Best Mountain Bike Pedals Below 1. FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon 3 Bearing. Check Price on Amazon.That means the fit of your bike pedals shouldn’t be treated any differently than your bike. Choosing a pedal can be overwhelming because there are so many choices available. In this article, I’ll provide a buyer’s guide along with reviewing best road bike pedals.
Best Clipless Road Bike Pedals in 2020.The best mountain bike pedals in 2020. Best flat MTB pedals, as rated by our expert testers. HT PA03.
Top 10 Best Mountain Bike Pedals in 2020 Reviews 1. Funn Mamba Mountain Bike Pedal Set, SPD Compatible. Finally, on this review are the bike pedals from fun which are 2. FOOKER Non-Slip Mountain Bike Pedals. On the second rank according to this review is.BEST FOR: ENDURO RIDING. For over 30 years, this French company has been creating high end pedals, shoes, and bikes.
And while they currently only offer shoes and bikes for road riding, their mountain bike pedals and cleats cover a wide range of cycling types.
List of related literature:
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from Biomechanics of Cycling | |
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from Bike Your Butt Off!: A Breakthrough Plan to Lose Weight and Start Cycling (No Experience Necessary!) | |
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from How to Build Motorcycle-engined Racing Cars | |
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from Triathlon Science | |
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from The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair: For Road & Mountain Bikes | |
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from XV Mediterranean Conference on Medical and Biological Engineering and Computing – MEDICON 2019: Proceedings of MEDICON 2019, September 26-28, 2019, Coimbra, Portugal | |
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from The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair for Road & Mountain Bikes | |
| |
from City Cycling | |
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from Inside Team Sky | |
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from Entrepreneurship: The Practice and Mindset |
265 comments
I use Mountain bike cleats on the road simply because they work for me, do you think that the road cleats are better I? am looking at maybe changing next month
BTW, Cadel Evans and Bradley Wiggins both won the Tour De France on Speedplays. Well, I went from Look, to Shimano and then Speedplay almost 25 years ago and never looked back. This guy may be right about what is best for a professional sprinter, but Speedplay float is WAY easier on your knees and you don’t have to be so precise with dialing in the other pedal systems to avoid knee strain and pain. I am 190 + lbs and never had issues with stability. I use standard Speedplay X series with old fashion cleat. Not the newer “Light Action and walkable cleat”.
Shimano’s PD-ES600 have been amazing for me. (Paired with S-works recon 7)
Have Shimano Ultegra PD R8000 pedals & Specialized Torch 3.0 road shoes.
In my experience Speed Plays are king at retention and power transfer.
I have Candy 11’s on the carbon and 7’s on the steel, having no subtalar joint on the right and a nonfunctional one on the left I need a flat sole to be able to walk around
#AskGCNTech I have a Polygon Strattos S7 Disc and looking to clean up the cables in front. I’m very interested with the Vision Metron 5D ACR to be able to route the cables internally. Do you have any other tips to clean up the cables in front for that clean, aero look besides getting something like the Metron 5D ACR?
I’m a simple man; I see Manon, I click the video. Haha Hi! ❤️
Hi Francis, if you want to change from Speedplay stainless zero pedal to Shimano spd sl, how would you know if you need to go for the extended axel as mentioned by James?
Love my Time pedals. Will get them again when I upgrade my bike.
shimano m520 on all my bikes.. enough for me, so durable too and walkable
I use shimano mtb pedals and shoes because they are easy to walk in.
I use the new Shimano R9100 +4mm pedal. Love them. Easy to clip in. No hotspots.
Excuse me, could I know what lens you take in this video? Is the same one during the ride and interview? awesome video:))
How much is a bike fit with yourself? Rough guide will do and where are you based? Thanks
SPD for me. One simple reason, I like to walk around from time to time. Believe me it’s easier than what I left, the old toe clips and straps.
Again a great promo ad for these pedals. No real world experience. The Look Keo looked like a bear to clip in to, in fact I saw a review that indicated that. I use Speedplay pedals and they are the best that I have used. The Vectors looked awesome and I will seriously consider these pedals. In general, a very lazy review. I will search YouTube for real reviews of these pedals.
Great vlog Francis and James, if only I was nearer to James’s shop, I need another bike fit!
learned on LOOK pedals, and remained with them. I’ve ditched the “grip” cleats for red ones, since the grip ones wear out fast and squeak. the easy disengagement of these pedals is ideal for NYC
I’ve been riding Crank Bros Candy Ti for 8 years on my road bike & love them. Can’t beat shoes you can walk in!
I’ve started several friends who were new to road cycling on mountain bike pedals. The easy in/out and more casual/cheaper shoe is easier on people who may be unsure about the sport. For a future bike fit Tuesday…. mountain bike fitting. I know it’s sacrilegious to even think about those knobby tires and suspension, but I was indoctrinating someone into the dirt side and found there is little to no bike fit offerings for mountain biking. Shops that will happily fit you on a road or TT bike, look at you with confusion when you ask about mountain bike fitting. “Do you think you need wider bars?” was the response I got.
Can you please cover excessive reach, not sure if I was miss sold my bike based on my height!
Why does he look like he wants to fight me every time he starts a sentence???
New content on helmets… clothing, wheels in a similar vein would be good chaps
Smart Watch V Cycling Computer V Mobile Phone. Which is the best? Do you need all three? How compatable are they with sensors? #AskGCNTech
whats up fracis can you make a video about fore and after saddle position for crit racing. thanks i love your work
Totaly agree.
Shimano is the best,speedplay is the worst!
Speedplay’s wobbly and unsecure(ice feeling)unstable feeling can’t go in the same sentence with shimano spd.
Not to mention expensive cleats that wear out so fast,finicky mount and adjust.
Greasing the bearings…
What a shitty pedal!
Hi guys, I’m considering moving to a SPD pedal (from an SPD XL) for an all-road build, at my fit for my current bike I had a spacer fitted for a leg length discrepancy, can you do the same for an SPD and are they adjustable enough to benefit from a bike fit? Thanks, Chris
WRONG!!!! Sorry for all caps, but please change cleats BEFORE that happens or the moment it does. That torn plastic will affect the float, in a bad way. Cleats should be like new at all times. If you can’t manage wear clear covers, or buy in bulk. As a bike fitter, I can’t tell you how many clients I have seen who have spent money on physios and MRI’s and the so on, but ride with pancake flat cleats, usually also badly placed too often placed with the axle aligned with the head of the first metatarsal because ‘that’s what I was told’. Love your videos but torn cleats need to be replaced. And all cyclists should get a bike fit:) THANKS!
Speedplays are marketing genius;
They put the pedal on the shoe and the cleat on the crank!
Shimano Dura-Ace SPD-SL’s for the win and SPD’s on MTB’s.
Manon please show what a wear indicator is on your next tech clinic. I’m sure some people are not sure what it is. Thanks
Tried speedplay last year. Hated them. Couldn’t get them adjusted properly to clip in easy (unclipping wasn’t an issue) and never felt comfortable. Back to keo and I’m a happy boy again.
Instability on the pedal can be good if your bio mechanics is a bit funny. Just like most people do well with a bit of float, some people do well with a bit of foot rocking on the pedal. It lets the pressure out so to speak. That’s what I think.
You can get wedges on mtb SPDs, I’ve used in past and still have some (very!!) worn ones
I have ridden Speedplays for 20 plus years. I am a heavy rider and put out power. I have had no issues. I guess I am lucky, or that my LBS sets my cleats up well.
I still don’t really understand the disadvantage of the MTB spd system… There are plenty of light options that offer a platform for stability.
Just the fact that you can walk in the shoes and you can clip in even with muddy shoes sells them to me.
Would there be risks in damaging my carbon wheels if I hang my bike on the wheel? I have the Campagnolo Bora. Thanks! #AskGCNTech
Should the central position of the float be position in such away that it is slightly more externally or internally rotated, due to maybe the foot/shoe moving slightly e.g. whilst climbing or sprinting. This is when the float it correctly positioned in the first place for the individual. Basically should we ever so slightly rotate it more one way than the other or not at all.
If you want to protect your bike use helicopter tape. You can get it in many colors and in clear and it lasts forever. I use it on both my road and mountain bike, especially where cables rub.
I’m curious why you think a loose (worn out) pedal would result in injury. How does that happen? Also for an injured rider, why not consider a platform pedal instead of clipless?
James, do you recommend having the same or similar pedals/cleats across ones bikes? I have Speedplay on my road and Crank Bros Double Shot on my gravel bike (flat on one side for casual rides, clip on the other for gravel). I’m wondering if maybe I need to swap my Speedplays for something different, especially after what you raised here. I’m planning to discuss with it fit guy as well, just curious what your thoughts are.
MTB spd for me, been using them for years.
Never had issues and cheaper than any other type.
Loving the videos and some great tips. After seeing the videos I have been inspired to make my own channel with my rides and some hints and tips…. any support appreciated. Hope its OK to post it here https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnrZ1L9yiHTAQsgnutUHjjw?view_as=subscriber
Speedplay Walkable are the solution to ‘walking on metal cleats’. The replaceable covers are fixed to the cleat, are cheap to replace, and last quite a long time.
Brilliant video! I’ve bought the Shimano SPD for my new road bike and a pair of Specialised shoes. I’m a new rider and I need to say the combo fits like a glove! I’m riding on all kinds of surfaces across UK. No complaints so far apart from the fact that they were a bit hard to clip on in the beginning. I’ve adjusted them(+/-) and sprayed a bit of GT85. Perfect now!
I’ve got speedplay, but I’ve got flat, big feet and now I feel my foot is hanging over the edge. Is it time to change?
Video idea? Alex Dowsett uses speedplay, lighter rider putting out less power? Haha. Maybe worth a discussion with him!
Do you have a burning tech related enquiry? Be sure to leave it in the comments section below using the #AskGCNTech
@francis cade The Longer Axle Ultegras you mention are these?? https://bike.shimano.com/pl-PL/product/component/ultegra-r8000/PD-R8000.html
As a heavier speedplay user I feel triggered. Someone validate me, I don’t wanna spend another 100 on new pedals
You are so awesome! So much needed for a woman to this channel, it lights it up.
I agree with Chris i went look then back to shimano but shimamo are harder to cluvk out off. Look cleats wear fast and are expensive. My favourite pedal is time got them on the backup bike but again cleats are expensive. Mtb pedals are ok on road I’ve used them for touring but you want a goid stiff shoe.
James owns a bike shop and never shows any bikes. With the bike owner’s and James’ permission, please show some cool customer bikes. P.S. I love BikeFitTuesdays.
Legend. I’m visiting James in 2020 to set up my gravel and cx bike. Can’t wait
After a lifetime of using Look and Shimano, I’m on my 4th year on Speedplay. By far the best. I will never go back.
Speedplay Zeros also are good for crits, as you have less pedal under the shoe so you can lean over more while still staying on the power.
Interesting, I think I should seek out a proper bike fitting! Can’t remember what pedal I started on many years ago (maybe Look) but I used to get knee pain and Speedplay were suggested to me and I’ve been great ever since. I suppose they work for me because at 180cm & 65kg I don’t produce huge power numbers. I’ve not looked at other pedal systems in years so this video was really interesting
I’d love to know more about the need to change or conditions that lead to changing pedals…??
I bike at the beach to look at girls in bikinis. What pedals work best with flip flops?
I use a mountain bike SPD system on my road bike as I have three bikes and don’t want to have to buy three pairs of shoes at £150 a time… And they work well..
#askgcntech Hi, I recently got a direct drive turbo trainer (Elite Turbo Muin Direct Drive Smart B+) do I need to get a specific quick release skewer or can I just use the skewer on my roadbike?
As usual, real world views and bio mechanics, not some paid-for love fest. Note the caveats about Speedplays they aren’t disliked but it maybe a pedal with those having physiological issues
Thanks for the video! didn’t realize Ollie was such a fast runner!
Any chance there could be a bit fit Tuesday for gravel bikes? Are they any different in position from a road bike?
I’ve used Look Delta forever and ever. Even though they are getting harder to find, I’m stuck with them, unless I change pedal systems on all three of my bikes. I use Black fixed cleats, and crank down the retaining tension, all of the way.
On my road bike, I had Giant Performance Elite pedals with Look Keo system. I am surprised how bad are these pedals. So difficult to clip in and out. I had to use a bit of silicone grease to make it easier. Luckily, they have developed a play so I changed them for original Look Keo. What a difference. So easy to clip in and out (with grey cleats) and are much faster. Can’t explain this, but on Look Keo I am much faster than on Giant ones.
potential content; starting points for heavier riders for types of saddles, positions, crank arm length etc. cover known issue for the heavier rider, as im build like a tank. high power, low cadence. love these vids they are so helpful
My bike fitter also suggested I should get rid of my Look’s when they wear out and go for Shimano. Seems to be a popular thought
Great review. I often thought about speed play but at 250lb and powerful, I’ll stick with my Shimano’s
Great video but the audio sync is misaligned just a bit and it’s been bugging me!
I think you assessment of Time pedals is off base. They are actually the second oldest designed pedal system (former look engineers designed it) and they’re the only system that offers both lateral and rotational float. Which is why you claim their float is weird. And if you run a saddle pressure map with these you will find they fix many sit issues.
I was a bit disappointed that you didn’t give more emphasis to cleats that correspond to the different pedals. I’m just getting back into riding after a long absence, and my old prejudice was a to favor Time and mountain bike SPD pedals, because the cleats were metal and less likely to wear and get damaged. Is this a realistic concern (at least for recreational riders)?
#AskGCNTech Hi, my bike comes with a 11-36 cassette, and the shifting works fine. However, when I put on a 11-42, it can’t shift to the biggest sprocket, and if I tighten the cable, it can shift to the biggest, but not the smallest. Is it possible that my chain is too short? If not what caused this?
I really loved the Time i-Clic pedal. BUT, some of the pedal bits cracked or broke off and the cleats were not so durable. Needed replace at least once a year. New, I’d take em hands down over any. But, now I use Dura ace. Love the vid, thx men.
Manton is sporting a better tan than the other GCN presenters, pro-tip maybe? ( Just saying)
I bought a second hand bike, and the group set is the 10 speed ultegra (from 2009 I think), instead of the latest 11 speed version, would it be possible to upgrade it and change between both ultegra systems? Is it even recommended or should I just focus on another upgrade instead of groupset?
Hi, I used to ride with spd pedal on mtb and commute over 10 years ago… i recently built a road bike with spd pedal and I find that after 20k, my feet start to hurt with the old mtb shoes or the later shimano rt5. What can I do to remove/manage the numbness?
Thanks
The XT 8020 spd pedals give you a nice big platform to aim at, good for when you are in traffic and need to pedal even if you missed the clip in. There are also the one sided a600 spd that look more like sl pedals.
In 25 years I’ve tried every type of pedal system. The most comfortable I have found is Keywin. Very unique engagement with loads of adjustability. Just a shame they’re an absolute nightmare to get a hold of.
For me Look feels sloppy as does Speedplay. Time Xpresso feels good as the float centres itself judt a shame the quality is crap. I favour Spd-SL as the interface feels solid. Feels like all your power is directed through the pedals. Probably more psycological.
The closer the flesh of your foot gets to the theoretical center of the pedal spindle the better. I once bought LOOK pedals and shoes, it came to hundreds of $! I drilled a small hole through the shoe, at the ball area and measured sole thickness. Then I measured from the top of the pedal platform to the theoretical center of the spindle and came up with over 1/2″ total (!) (foot was sitting too far above the theo. spindle center) I returned both the pedals and shoes. I ended up with SIDI Genius and Speedplay, which measured half again closer to the theo. center. Meaning I could lower my saddle as well as be ‘deeper in the pedal’. WHERE TO PLACE THE CLEAT: On your naked foot print a dot, in ink, right on the ball of the foot. Put our foot in the shoe and step down. The idea is to transfer the ink dot to the sole of the shoe. Drill a tiny hole through the dot. The drill hole should now reference where the pressure point of the ball of the foot lies within the shoe. Place the cleat so the ‘dot’ is directly over the center of the spindle.
There is one cloaked area on the ideal RB pedal system. A MTB retention system on a RB platform. I’m enjoying my Shimano PD A520 matched with a China made carbon soled shoes. You guys should seriously look at this option.
For another video, Crank length, Is 172.5 right for everyone? When should someone consider different lengths, and what differences are felt from one to the other?
If my mates and I are all part of a team, and the team gets a new kit sponsor, should part of the team be wearing the new kit if there aren’t enough to go around for the whole team? Or should the entire team wait until the entire team has the new kit. I’ll be honest, some of my mates have been keen to don the new kit-especially b/c some of the rest of us don’t have it yet. That kind of attitude seems to undermine our team, and it has also caused a lot of our fans to ask constant questions about the new kit.
Must admit I started with a mtb therefore mtb shoes and peddles and I didn’t want a second pair of shoes so I put a pair of mtb peddle for my road bike. Having had a knee replacement both legs are the same length may have been different before. Didnt know you can add spacers to road shoes.
I’m no athlete so for me it’s more about function than fashion. I’ll stick to my mtb shoes and pedals on my road bike they allow me to walk into a coffee shop like a normal person lol
So right about the Speedplays, loose tension i no time and get “slippy”
James / Francis, with bikepacking and exploring by bike becoming bigger what’s your thoughts on combo pedals (SPD/flat) such as the Shimano PD-EH500 or PD-T800?
I’ve always lusted after road SpeedPlays, but never had them, as I hate the idea of a shoe one cannot walk with. I used a pair of titanium Frogs in early 2000s they were fine pedals, but neither quite as beautiful as the Zeros, nor as pleasantly tactile as SPD pedals.
Had Time Attac titanium carbon pedals I loved their tactility, but they turned creaky within months of use.
A pair of SPD Wellgo and various Shimanos nice and tactile, but also not quite perfect.
Acquired a pair of XLC SPD pedals for €29-something. Look just as good as the best of Shimano’s (obviously not as beautiful as SpeedPlay Zeros) and weigh less than XTRs.
If only Speedplay Zero series were as walkable as SPDs, I’d dash for them.
Just because the rubber walking pads on Shimano cleats are worn or torn, it doesn’t mean that the main cleat surface is worn out.
Speedplays are totally the way to go. Much more aerodynamic and lighter sytem. I have walkabales so I can walk around.
I have the B’TWIN 500 Keo pedals. Bang for the buck and it’s durable like the other more expensive options too
#AskGCNTech hi guys I’m a new cyclist, just started cycling this february and after some time my friend tried suggesting me to upgrade parts, currently I have a cyclocross bike with stock parts and I decided to upgrade my flat pedals to clipless pedals but as a student I don’t have much money for a good road pedals can you suggest some budget clipless pedals? Btw I’m a fan from philippines and gcn is the reason why I came into cycling thank you for the inspiration…
Again, fantastic video! Love James’ take on cycling. By the way, could you do a quick video of his new gravel bike? It looks so sweet!
I have used the speedplay X series as long as they’ve been out. Full float; never had any knee issues since.
I use Shimano SPD-sl pedals for their sheer durability and for the off-road I use crank brothers candys for their easy engagement, weight, and mud shedding ability.
Where exactly did you travel in Vietnam? I’m currently in Da Nang, Vietnam:). Kinda been here for a while one of the reasons being that it’s great to ride bicycle.
Love bike fit Tuesdays. And James drinking coke is he on the wagon.♂️
Great content. Would love to see an episode around bike fit for ultra endurance riding. Transcontinental etc…
#AskGCNTech What kind of fabric stabilizer can I use, when repairing cycling shorts? I’ve read somewhere, that ordinary paper towel does the job. And it will come easy off and dissolves away in wash. I tried it, but it was not so easy to remove that paper from under zig-zag seam.. Even after some rides and washes, I could still see some tiny white pieces of paper stick on seam. Then next time I tried just ordinary brown packaging paper. It was easier to remove it.. while I still had to drag little pieces of paper out from seam with tweezers. Also that paper was too fragile, it tore under seam at one spot while sewing and the seam/patch got little crooked.. It’s not a big problem because when the pants are on, it stretch and becomes invisible.. The patch I cut from old worn out Castelli pants that I had..
I have read, that there exist some special fabric stabilizer for sewing stretch fabric, that has clue on one side, so you can stick it on fabric and then after finish just throw the cloth to washing machine and the stabilizer dissolves completely. But I wonder, if that is actually good. Maybe the adhesive on that kind of stabilizer is harmful for technical fabric?
It seems that it’s actually not that hard to repair cycling pants.. just need right stabilizer that works and sewing machine.. But finding right stabilizer… I don’t want to experiment on my pants.. Also must use ballpoint or jersey or smth needle on sewing machine to sew stretch fabric..
Can Ollie test on his new kit and then show us how to do it right.. with his mom’s sewing machine maybe?
damn it James i use 540’s, i’ll order 550’s now, lol, great video Francis, the knowledge of James is amazing, just incredible at his job, great advice as always and well appreciated. thank you sir!
Ive used Time Atac XC pedals on both mtn bike and road bike. Paired with Sidi mtn bike shoe or Shimano sandals I have been using them for 25 years, mtn biking, TT, road and touring. One pedal fits all bikes.
The jump cuts of james makes him seem like a squirrel on a bike, love it
I agree with other commentators that MTB shoes and pedals work well because you can walk in them. I use crankbrothers eggbeaters which are light and reliable.
The idea that platform size of the pedal matters is a myth. If you have a stiff soled shoe the size of the platform is the size of your shoe’s sole. There isn’t some magic that happens where physics will differentiate between the bottom of a shoe and the top of a pedal. They act the same for all relevant purposes.
Manon looks different in the thumbnail. I thought we were going to meet a new presenter.
I’ve got egg beaters and road looking mountain bike shoes. The ability to walk normal at the cafe and around the house trumps the tiny benefits of full on road shoes
I have speedplay 0. and they are great! Thanks for the comprehensive video.
Excellent job I’ve gone to Shimano ultegra pedals very stable had Looks but they start rocking with very little walking shimano lasts 3 times longer..
I’ve been riding crank brothers egg beaters for years. They are light and offer easy clip in and out and suitable for the non racy road riders, commuters and off road bikers. They don’t get clogged with mud and dirt and the cleats are small so walking is not a problem. They are not as durable as some makes but replacement parts are available.
“Bikefit tuesday is back to stay” is the best sentence I’ve heard today
Since this is road.cc, I am surprised they did not highlight the Shimano PD A600. This is an SPD pedal system with a very similar profile to the Shimano SPD SL road pedals. I has a large platform that is great for stability and power transfer but allowing the convenience of an SPD shoe. You guys missed the mark on this one, suggesting the PD M520, which is indeed a great pedal, but it is gearing more to mountain biking than road or gravel.
I use the same pedals off Eddy Merckx, the cal peid in france laugues
perhaps you should call this the ‘Shimano channel ‘.. not much on Campagnolo, and other manufactures,, like in pedals, Time road bike pedals work really well, but not a word…i did watch this channel alot in the past, but it just becoming a adver. for Shimano.
Well done explaining the different makers of clipless pedals.
Question for James, have you had any experience with solstar insoles?
There’s also a Shimano SPD pedal where the platform is a bit larger and the entry a bit easier. However its one sided.
#AskGCNTech Hey, Love your videos, really helpfull but there is something I can’t figure out on myself, I have a 3×9 Shimano gearsetup with a 44-34-22 crank on my Hardtail MTB, which uses Shimanos Octalink. I want to upgrade my setup from the Octalink BB to a Hollowtech 2 BB. I can get the same crank with the 44-34-22 gears as a Hollowtech 2 version. Now to my question: The Hollowtech 2 BB won’t be flush with the frame like the Octalink BB so I gues the crankgears will be further away from the frame and I’m going to mess up the chainline, am I right? If so, how can i compensate for that? Thanks for any help and suggestions! Have a good one.
I ride a mountain bike pedal with my road bike and have since I stopped racing in 1993 solely because I wanted a walkable shoe. I use XTR pedals which are very durable. The cleats will wear to the point where you can pull out of the pedal! A new set of cleats is about $20 and may need to be replaced once a year. Shoes range from less than $100 to $500 for carbon sole Sidi’s
I ride an old pair of SPD-R road pedals, which Shimano don’t make any more. I like the float and what I understand is that side to side rocking which you mention for the Keo pedals, although the bearings have worn out after a couple of decades. My knees don’t seem to like the horizontal-only float of the more modern SPD-SL pedals. I might have to look at those Keo pedals if I want new ones, rather than risk second hand SPD-Rs from ebay…
#AskGCNTech Hi from Japan! First of all, I love watching your show. I daydream about aero every day and am thinking about introducing aero cranksets to my road bike. What are the pros and cons of an aero crank and do you have any aero double chainring cranksets that you can recommend. Thanks.
#AskGCNTech I would like to replace my bottle cages. However, when I try to unscrew the bolts, they just keep spinning in the frame and don’t come out. Is there any solution or do I have to keep my old bottle cages? Thanks in advance!
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, love the show. I just got a new Vision team 35 SL wheelset with this bling black braking surface which is expected to change colour to the standard Aluminium braking surface with use. Are there any brake pads which I can use which would slow down the process, or even maintain that beautiful finish?
Good boy for realising that Shimano are the best. I will extend this for you, and conclude that not only are Shimano the best, but the rest are actually fucking shit.
IMHO the distinction Shimano/Look should be explained a bit further. I’ve used Shimano, then Look. If you refer to the most basic (and most sold) Look Keo, the comparison is fair. The cheap Look Keo (plastic with a spring basically), release is adjustable and easier than Shimano. A bit too easy for me. And you always get some rattle unless you’re using the black Look cleats. But if you change (as I did) to the (unfortunately more expensive) Look Blade (or Keo Blade), Carbon body with fixed tension marked not by a spring but a carbon flexible plate), your union to the pedal is really strong (I use the softest carbon plate tension and at the beginning releasing the cleat took its effort) and solid. As I said, just my opinion.Today I love Look Blade pedals (but could use without any problem a good Shimano one). Cheers.
I’m pretty pleased with the Time iClic pedals I’m on right now. 100% agree about setting the cleats as far back as possible.
Great video very informative as a 61 year old guy tried look pedals few years ago could not clip in lol so use shimano mtb pd m530 any chance you could recommend a upgrade on this pedal? Keep up the great videos
You quickly held up an SPD pedal with a larger area of stability when reviewing the Shimano gravel pedals can you link them? I have a gravel bike which I’m usually riding on the road and just got Shimano as my first clip-ins, along with shoes with recessed clip. I’m 6’2″ and hoping they offer enough stability. I’m also 53 years old and certainly don’t want to hurt my knees.
Is there anything to be said on speedplay pedal clearance? From a bike fit perspective what was said is true, however in a technical race scenario they have been marketed to have better clearance.
Have you guys not tried speedplay pedals at all recently? They come with walkable covers standard for at least the last two years, and the base model (light action) doesn’t require nearly as much force to engage.
I’ve had my set for 2 years now and never had an issue..
I quite enjoy my Speedplay on my Roadie and Time X9 MTB pedals:)
the advice james offered about buying mtb shoes as a first clip in setup will be disregarded by 95% of beginners simply because MTB shoes/cleats don’t look pro simple as that. and to further the comments about adjustability, the vast majority of riders don’t adjust their cleats and if they do, it’s just fore and aft, nothing else. therefore all the adjustability speedplay offers is rather useless for the average rider.
Living in the land of flatness, I’d say city commuting is the only way to wear out your rims. Last pair of brake pads on my road bike lasted 15000km, whereas on my commuter it’s more like 2000km (or even less).
I’ve come from a road pedal and now ride gravel. I have a issue with my right knee. I cannot get the adjustment I need to not have knee pain when clipped in (even without pedalling). With straight knees my feet point out. My right foot points out at approx 15 degrees with my knee straight. I was curious have you ever fitted someone with that spectrum?
Hey Manon, I’ve just bought a new road bike and am commuting on it at the moment but I’m not sure if I’m locking it up securely. I’m a bit worried it will get stolen so please could you give me a few tips as to how to best lock it up? thanks! #askgcntech
#AskGCNTech
How can I adjust my front derailleur for Rotor Qrings? I keep having issues with it
Mtb pedals for me, I’ve got really stiff mtb shoes, mud clearance is damn good. Walking is damn good. Might be 100g heavier but unless you are professional track racer mtb pedals make perfect sense in my opinion.
#askgcntech hi guys. Is there a formula for comparing different group sets? For example my CX against my MTB or Roadbikes. With the 1x and the new sram setup, compact etc there’s a lot of choice out there. Stay safe n healthy out there everyone. Steve still in partially locked down Granada, Esp.
The best type of pedal is the one that the cleat is set up right on the shoe, there is no one answer for this, I started racing when we used toe clips and straps and two straps on each foot on the track no float to be had, then clipless pedals came into play still no float. retired from racing after 18 yrs ended up going through 5 knee rebuilds from racing off road motorcycles in a 16 yr span MCL/ACL etc. got back on the pedals and still ride fixed cleats with no problems at all, cleat set up is what needs to be addressed not what pedal to use. Just my opinion..
Can anyone recommend a good place to get fitted in the south?
Bike fit Tuesday on a Tuesday!? What???… recently got a fit done with Garry Kirk (Paisley-Scotland) and wish I’d done it years ago. His principles are very similar to James’ with lots of emphasis on foot/cleat correction. Absolutely invaluable! these vlogs are too and would recommend everyone to get one done♂️
I use my bike for audaxing, sportives and commuting and have used Shimano SPDs for over a decade. Not just for beginners but for experienced riders who love the durability, ease of use and practicality.
I use Shimano ES600 SPD pedals with MTB shoes on a gravel bike on the road and I use continental GP5000 tubeless road tyres with tubes in them…I’m sure many cork sniffers sneer at me but the setup suits me just fine and that’s the most important thing…if it works for you then that’s what you should use.
Great to see Bike Fit Tuesdays back! I had a fit with James last year after suffering from back pain and numb feet. My only regret was not doing it sooner made my riding more fun, comfortable and I’ve been riding longer and more often. Fit is such an important thing and a poor fitting bike is the reason so many people give up this beautiful sport.
Eyeing up a new bike for 2020, there’s only one guy I’ll be shopping with
The Nikola pedal with its lateral motion has helped mitigate soreness in my legs. It uses the Look Keo cleat.
Spent a fortune trying to get comfortable. Speedplay gets my vote.
Don’t forget Time pedals Manon…they have angular and lateral float very good if you have knee problems
been running shimano’s XT PD-M785 SPD’s on both my road bike and commuter bikes for years now. both sets have been completely bomb proof, surviving any weather conditions and collisions with random objects like roots or rocks, if i happened to take it off onto rougher roads or trails.
ive been riding speedplay for the last few months and I have to say I’m probably going to go back to my old reliable time pedals. I lube the speedplay almost every ride but they’re real hard to click in release is fine.
Answer: power pedals (Favero Assioma, Garmin Vector 3, Powertap P2) my pair of Powertap P1 is posibly the best investment I’ve ever made on a bike by far
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN. I have a 9 speed sram group set however I am not sure if the name of it. I have two brocken jockey wheels and I am not sure which ones to buy as their are lots on the market. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Mark
Another informative viedo. I agree with James about MTB pedals. I have them on my Gravel/Commuter bike. Its nice going from a street light and just being able to stomp my foot down and not have to worry about being in the right position as much. My road bike has Shimano pedals just because I like the power transfer feel of them. I notice with the MTB pedals trying to sprint or really push on them it feels a little loose. Maybe something youll take about in the next video! Im not sure if you can adjust float on MTB pedals.
I’ve been riding spd pedals for years. Never had a problem. Used to ride look pedals but rather have the comfort than bigger contact patch with the pedal. The shoe should give you most of your stability anyways
I like my SPD clips, even though they’re technically for mountain bikes. I’m not a road racer or anything, and the wide variety of commuter-style shoes are much more comfortable if you expect to alternate riding and walking, as I sometimes do. I also use Shimano combination pedals, so I can ride clipped or unclipped as suits my mood, ie, riding in groups, wet weather, or other situations where I may have to stop suddenly.
Bike fit James on form. That hint about cheap Shimano pedals is magic. Here’s a question, are there some people who can’t wear cleats, either due to previous injury, biomechanics or anatomy, and have to stay with flat pedals?
Always Ultegra before Dura-Ace pedals! They are maybe 10g heavier but more durable and cheaper!
Speedplay is the most elegant, useful and durable system. You clip in both ways, no need to look down and/or taking forever to catch the pedal in the right position, you can have the same cleats for multiple years. The only problem most users of other systems, especially ladies, are having is it takes quite a bit of force to clip in or unclip as the metal spring is strong.
Look is the most horrible system ever created. The plastic cleats start getting more and more float just from clipping in and out, not to mention walking. You need to replace cleats many times a season which brings in problems of its own if not done correctly. They tend to start squeaking or making other noises after a while (people start oiling or wetting the cleats to stop the noise). Basically anything with plastic cleats is shyte.
for small scratches, get nailpolish! cheap, easy to use and very resistant
I have had knee issues, (a total joint replacement in the left knee, and a right knee that will be replaced early next year). I have been riding Speedplay Frog, off-road cleats for close to 20 years. They have free float, (no tension), which have been great for me.
Perfect explanations from James, I’m using eggbeaters and Mountain bike shoes on the road. No worries
Hi just got back in too cycling after major spinal surgery I’ve never used clip less pedals always had flat pedals what is a ball part figure for the set up including shoes & cleats??
I ride the MTB clip system 3 reasons Easy to walk on and dont destroy my wooden floor at home Also most spinning bike I had train they use that system
#AskGCNTech. Does anyone know what speed the tailwind must be to be beneficial to not bend your elbows and be compact but to be as big as possible to ‘sail’ the wind? Could you make a video on it if not?
Any help with bike fit for heavy riders I.e. me!! Would be great to hear. Great video keep up the good work
I like the squealing toddlers in the background. Was this shot in a museum or a train station or something?
Good video. Thanks for the info. Thumbs up.
What’s James’ views on SPDs with the extra 4mm adjustable Q factor axels?
Hi, Watched & Enjoyed. Using Shimano Ultegra pedals & Specialized Torch 3.0 road shoes, Bike: 2019 Specialized Sirrus Pro Carbon. Great Presentation
Just changed to look from Shimano, Garmin Vector power meter, much more float than my Shimano pedals, but no issues with the release side, Now that I can see where I’m standing on my pedals can you suggest how to sort my ‘platform offset’ or does it not really matter?, is it affected by the float as some rides it seems to be be better on one side than the other. Suddenly exposed myself to lots of new data, which I’m trying not to obsess over, from a fit perspective, is there anything I should be paying attention too?
Great videos as ever, if I’m ever in London I’ll visit the shop, think I was there before you too over.
I’ve used a pair of Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals for years with lots and lots of km’s on them. Function as well as new. Replace worn cleats regularly. Pedals? Not so much.
Platforms, like disco, belong to the 70s. Cranky Bros egg beaters for me.
#AskGCNTech A few questions so please bare with me. Which is better, Look Keo 2 Max Carbon or Look Keo Blade? Should I get a pair of Shimano 105/ultegra pedals or (the better one between the two Look pedals)? Aside from the price, which one is better? Why?
I have a 2013 Cannondale Synapse with a Tiagra groupset that I recently purchased secondhand. If I wanted to upgrade one component at a time or even let’s say change to the newest version of a part for example I buy a 105 5800 and piece in a 105 r7000 will the parts bolt up the same without modification. Trying to figure out how to upgrade on a budget one or two components at a time. I hope that all makes sense. #AskGCNTech
Loving the content! I use crankbrother candy mtb pedals on both my road and fixed gear bikes. Love them! One of the issues brought up in the previous video was not being able to use external wedges on mtb shoes. I was actually able to find some for mine and they work great.
GCN presenters having those annoying pop-ups on their. I do as well. Would you like me to join the team as a presenter from the PNW, USA?
Manon shows the cleat wear pads that look like mine after a year and have at least 2 years left in them! As for pedals I have never replaced pedals due to wear and my Garmin vectors are a little expensive to replace like that.
I had Look Keo for 5+ years but experienced some rocking and hotspots, and the cleats wore very quickly. I switched to Dura-Ace and everything changed. Super solid and smooth platform and the cleats are fantastic (better materials and wear).
Btwin 500 is super similar with VP R73, if it is not coming from same factory.
Liking the love for ShimanoThe SPD always give me knee problems, would you recommend anything else for me on my gravel bike?
I’ve gone back to shimano spd after hoing loom them time. Still use time on my trainer but the shimano cleats are cheaper and long lasting plus 3 choices of float.
He is talking about the speedplay zero. They are adjustable. The speedplay x series are not.
Speedplay zero FTW. James obviously is not versed in all the modifications that can be done with the zero pedal to match the rider. If proper stance and foot tilt is addressed the pedal bodies will not wear out with tilt.
Love my speedplays… The small contact pad is no issues. It feels solid. 12 years with speedplays. I had dura ace for 2 years, not bad too… But don’t like to look down.
Questions… But I’ll leave them until bike fit Thursday for me with James.
Hello GCN, got me a Canyon Endurace AL 7.0 Disc. Obviously it needs to be fitted but professional bikefitting is quite expensive. (Studying at University so money is tight and buying the bike nearly financially runind me:D) Now I discovered the Bikefitting Box of a german company called Ergon for about €30 quid. Any experiences with that? Is it worth the money? Maybe worth a review. Thank you for all the interesting and helpful content. #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech
I’m getting a new bike, a Cannondale SystemSix Sram force axs(12 speed), at the moment on my bike I am currently riding I have a powerbox alloy power-meter 52/36, would I be able to use this on my SystemSix or would the 12 speed chain be to thin and just drop off?
Hi Manon & Ollie! As my bottom bracket is creaking louder and louder every day, I wanted to take it of and have a look at it. The type is a FSA Omega MegaExo 19mm diameter crank in the corresponding BSA bottom bracket screwed into my cannondale CAAD optimo (took my at least 2 hours to find that out..) As it has a “self-extracting” mechanism using a retaining ring, I tried to remove it, but the retaining ring is broken (thread damaged, ring warped, ready to recycle) I’m trying to figure out what to do next. Do I replace everything? And to start with: how can I get everything of? Current exit strategy: using a grinder our al TIG welding torch to weld that retaining ring on the crank. My Cannondale is my first true cycling love and hitting it with a grinder doesnt seem fair. What am I to do? #AskGCNTech
How about the MTB pedals from Look the carbon/titanium ones? Any thoughts on it? Bearings, weight?
I think the idiot who said that Speedplay is bikefitter’s dream is Steve Hogg! Check out his website, he recommends them. After all, he does seem to be the God of bikefitting if I’m not mistaken, the first to say that people run their saddles too high or have their cleats too far forward etc and uses phrases including “all other things being equal” etc.
Assuming the person wanting to change from a 50T chainring is running a 50/34 if they only upgrade the 50 to a 52 they’ll be exceeding the 16T maximum recommended difference between chainrings.
They also will only only gain 3 or 4 mph at 100rpm changing from 50-11 to 52-11.
Just an FYI
I strap cleats onto my hands so I can clip into the handlebars.
HI, can you do a bike fit Tuesday on saddle setback one time, if you haven’t already?
Bike-fit James is right on the money about Speedplay pedals, as they are quite a fragile system and wear out easily, especially if you position the cleat towards the medial side of the foot to increase q-factor/stance width.. I use their longest 65mm axles, but run the cleats dead centre, and find my pedals and cleats last for much longer..I also use a thicker Steve Hogg fore-aft adapter plate to address a leg length discrepancy.. So I’m stuck with Speedplay, until one of the major pedal manufacturers come up with a cheaper alternative..As the worldwide patent on Speedplay Zero’s recently ran out, I spotted Axis(made in China) replica lollypop pedals on ebay… at $50 a pair with titanium axles in multiple widths.. Up until quite recently, Richard Byrne (Speedplay company founder) had been suing anyone who dared make accessories for his system.. Bradley Wiggins and Jens Voigt used Speedplay pedals with longer axles…
Yeah James, Wearing NYs Search and State Jersey! Import item for you guys…
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 when they came out. Adjustable tension is what I loved the most, race in tight and relax in ease too.
I really, really like the SPD-SL cleat (maybe even love), but, after research, I think the Favero Assioma pedal-based power meter is the best value power meter. Unfortunately, they are only compatible with LOOK cleats. What should I do?
James, you can increase the stack on an MTB cleat https://www.bikefit.com/p-3-8-pack-mtbspd-cleat-wedges.aspx
Started with Look pedals. Even had a set of old Time pedals. Changed to Shimano Road and eventually replaced them all with Shimano mtb pedals simply for one shoe + walking and wear rate convenience. Track bike training is on Shimano Road. Loved my Look pedals but standing wear out rate was high. Tech has advanced so who knows.. ATM it ain’t broke so no fix required.
Thanks. For road MTB, do you go with Shimano XTR, A600, Look X Track or Time Cyclo 10?
#AskGCNTech I have an issue with my right hand which always goes numb after about 15-20 km of riding. I recently bought my first road bike and the problem now occurs later than with my old flat bar bike, but its still a problem. Is this a bike fit related issue (i’m fairly short) or do just I need to train more & build strength to overcome this?
Does she just keep getting more beautiful with every post?? Or is that just me
disclaimernot trying to objectify you Manon, you’re also a great presenter and an incredibly impressive cyclist. A lot of us would only dream to represent our country as a cyclist!flat pedals and lightweight running shoes. used spd years ago, didnt find any benefit in non racing situations, where top acceleration/sprint is not needed. only “disadvantage” is that it seems that even more of these 15k of gear riders are pissed off when you pass them:)
Regarding the questioner who believes that their reach with one arm is longer than the other it might be an arm length difference, but it could equally be a side effect of a more general asymmetry that’s causing them to sit off-centre on the saddle. This causes a weight imbalance that you have to compensate for by putting more force on the opposite brake lever / handlebar. Sometimes caused by a leg length difference (whether physcial or functional).
I’ve been cycling for many years including working in a full service boutique bike shop while in college.
I’m also addicted to bike tech. So I’ve ridden using many different clipless pedals. I’m strictly a road biker doing half day to week long family and group rides.
By far my favorite pedals have been the Speedplay brand.
The main feature in my mind is the generous “float” capability. Never any knee issues, very light weight, double sided entry so no fumbling around to click in, and several different styles to suit one’s preferred type of riding situation.
I have the Frog version because it allows one to clip into user friendly bike shoes with a recessed sole clip attachment. This is nice for walking on pavement etc. when walking around whatever town you passing through for eating and sightseeing etc.
I am riding a high-end recumbent so once clipped in the float allows my feet to always “hang” naturally without any stress on my feet and knees, especially when coasting.
I’ve been using them for over ten years and in my case, maintenance free with zero functionality issues.
They are FABULOUS! And my body thanks them. I give them a five star+ rating.
Enjoy!
What about pedals/shoes that can be used for road (work bike) and cross country?
Speedplay all the way. Double sided. More cornering clearance. Fully adjustable. Always fastest to clip in off the lights. Also comes in light action for wife and kids ✅
Thoughtful guy. Really knows his stuff. Couldnt agree with him.more. as i just switch from ultegra to xtr pedals xD. Just hate the triangle cleats. I can never seems to put them identical L and Right
I use crank brothers egg beaters on my road and tri bike. 4 sided entry means in 1st time, everytime and I can use mtb shoes so they are more comfy and I don’t look silly walking around. I commute mostly and ride for recreation. I have done a triathlon with them. advantage is I can wear my shoes in t1 and walk comfortably out to bike out:)
about the pedals and knee injuries/surgeries: a friend of mine had one a couple years ago and is quite happy with the speedplays… and he also has a shorter leg that had been unrecognized for decades which probably led to the problems. to accomodate that he got a friend of his to cnc machine an aluminium plate as a spacer (1cm) between the shoes and the click plate also worked fine for years now.
Wonder why are you recording at this location everytime. I can hear lots of background random noises that isn’t pleasant.
#AskGCNTech, Is there any benefit of sitting up slightly in a strong tailwind? Or is it still the most beneficial to get as low as possible on the front?
What about power meter pedals as a lot of us are running them now.
Hi, going from spd-sl to speedplay with 53mm axle, anything to watch out for?
I ride SPD (MTB) types on the road bike for more than 20 years and never encountered any ‘contact area’ problem. There are pedals with an extended contact area, still, you need to choose a shoe with super-stiff sole. So there is the advantage of being able to walk more or less normally. The drawback is the weight of shoe and pedal is usually quite a bit more than compared to a Look pedal system. Also, the choice of suitable shoes (i.e. MTB shoes for road bike purposes) is certainly much more limited.
My preferred pedals are Speedplay Frogs. Before that, I liked Bebops. I’m always on the look out for the next discontinued pedal system that I can fall in love with. I have Speedplay road pedals which I like, but my road shoes fell apart and I haven’t given enough of a crap to buy new ones. In size 49, finding MTB shoes that fit is much easier.
For the Madone Stem one. 2019 has semi-integrated stem+handlebar. If you remove madone-specific spacer from below the stem, you need to either
1) cut steerer tube
Or
2) add normal, round spacer of same amount on top.
Option 1) just suits the bike better, but is irreversible.
If you do not add spacer or cut, the headset will be loose and damage the bike in long run.
#AskGCNTech im looking to upgrade to a new bike in the near future and with me standing at 5’7″/170cm i seem to be in the magical sweet spot of 2 different sizes. is it generally better to go with a smaller or larger size, pros and cons?
Thanks for the great content. Recently upgraded to that 105 pedal after using the old m520 for years and the difference is night and day…way more secure, way more contact, way lighter…also way harder to walk home when i blow my tire. Thoughts on eggbeaters? Thanks guys!
#AskGCNTech hi guys I have a Gianni Motta steel bike with a pretty old campy record gear set of 39/53 and 9-23. The shifting is unreliable and the brake levers are very stiff, and I want to replace the full groupset what’s the best value for money replacement set with a teenager’s budget in mind?
#AskGCNTech I have a refreshing question for you guys, does taking a bath (Warm or Cold) before riding affect your performance during the ride?
Legs same length, but my knees are slightly different in placement. I’ve found that having the right cleat different from the left improved the smoothness of my cadence. Should I be trying to have both cleats at the same positioning on my shoes?
Hey Mr Cavendish lookalike. Great pro advice I’ve used Time for years and the worse ones were the RXS thin skeletons. Damned rubbish. Latest Xpress 15 carbon/ti have been great, So far!
Hi Manon, just so you know Look makes some really cool pedals, I have a set of the Keo blade carbon pedals.
I have Shimano 9000 pedals on one bike and Look compatible Exustar-made Garmin Vector 2 pedals on the other. Really, I can’t tell the difference in terms of convenience and ergonomics. Both are very good. It all boils down to how well cleats are adjusted.
#askgcntech will 32mm tyres be okay on a 622x15c rim? Certain charts online seem to say it’s the maximum allowed but others say 28 is the maximum
Never considered the fact of all the tech in a cleat. Appreciate the education!
I use look keo 2 max….only ones iv ever had but I find absolutely nothing wrong with them….. im happy with them!
1:24 how on earth do you get almost perfect helmet hair, I’m using scott arx helmet and after 3 hours of riding I have 5 rows of spikes in my hair
I started on the road bikes with the Look Keo pedal system. I have since swapped to speedplay pedals because I love the dual sided entry.
Rode Look pedals, before that Shimano. Tried Speedplay, but went back. Had a bike fit done, where the guy told me to try Speedplays again, but this time he would set them up. Amazing difference, far less problems with my knees. So I am super happy and will stick with Speedplay. Also, during my bikefit he noticed that my shoulders were not aligned, he had measured my arms so he knew that wasn’t the issue. Turned out my incorrect position at the office, combined with stress, made one shoulder tense up that it caused my shoulder to be misaligned.
I adore my Speedplays! Switched from Shimano SPD SL’s and I really don’t want to go back. I’m only 4’10 and 82lbs so I can see what he means about Speedplay not being the best for bigger riders. The only downside to them in my opinion is the maintenance. Personally don’t mind since I’m particular about my bike maintenance anyway.
For riding on local roads I use double sided so intersection starts are safer. The weight penalty is neglible on my 20ish pound bike.
Favero Assioma Uno. Uses a very similar cleat as Look Keo but for some reason when i use original Keo cleats, the pressure point is very vague and it also reduces the strength needed to fully click into. The cleats that were delivered with the Assiomas work flawlessly with a quite firm action(always set on the easiest and still quite firm), snappy and 6°(i believe) float.
Descrending feels kinda weird with these pedals because they have some quite feelable friction when using the float. On the flat they are quite stiff, reasonably light(300g for dual sided powermeter option) and the bearings quite smooth
my main reason was to get a cost effective powermeter i could switch between bikes. So Stages, although with good customer service and good pricepoint, weren’t an option(changing cranks is…not too handy). The BePros had very good reviews as well so i decided to give the Assiomas a go. Love them, accurate(i believe) without any power readings that were odd and at 490€ quite well priced. the dual sidedversion goes for around 800€ i think.
and no, the pod doesn’t obstruct at all.
Lake carbon shoes and Crank Brothers Candy 11s, light with lots of float, I like float.
Very good presentation that mate really good video considering what’s going on in the world
Just please guys I can’t express enough no spd on track or fixed gear bikes. Broke 3 ribs and was off the bike for 15 months because of that mistake
Thanks Francis to bring the Spartacus back again on bike even for short time.. Love his explaining. I wish I can find cure to my left feet metatarsalgia it start killing me just after 10mil ride!:(
Ah gutted yous cut it off but a nice teaser talking about float! I was really into it haha. James is great.
FTR a couple of years ago when my mum got into road cycling I recommended she get SPDs (mountainbike cleats as James referred to them) because the shoes are far more versatile for walking about during coffee stops for example…or even just doing a bit of wandering about…which she likes to do! She’s happy with them.
I ride grey Looks with Favero Assioma power pedals (had to change from yellow shimanos on 105 pedals previously). No issues so far but I’m a big brick sh!thouse so getting my feet out of any cleat is easy so no difference on that point. Never had a bike fit. One day I’m gonna make a pilgrimage from Glasgow to bike fit James:-)
As a heavy rider. I find Speedplay great. No problems with durability and loads of adjustability. Allows the foot to move around so reduces any problems with knees etc. High recommended.
#AskGCNTech Hola presenters, can you use a tt frame to be a road bike? If yes, what are the difference between a normal road bike frame and a tt frame?
As a long time Look and Shimano user, I made the switch to Time on a lark. For people that need a lot of adjustment, Time is one of the most adjustable pedals on the market. The cleats are a little delicate on the “tab risers?”, but even if they break off it has no effect on the cleat engagement. The cleats certainly last a lot longer than Look cleats, which I was replacing about every 1000-1500 miles and I have had several Look cleats break during sprints. I’m going to get a pair of Speedplays next, mainly because I’m a gear whore not because the Time are bad. The only downside to Time is the increased stack, sometimes vague engagement and funky to walk on cleat tab risers… but they are a lot less slippery to put your foot down on in the rain than Look.
#AskGCNTech hi guys Relatively new to bike commuting. I have notice that my chain ring has some worn out or uneven teeth. Is this normal or no? Also, I have already more them 400 miles on it, how much millage does a bike have to gro through to “service” it? Ex: changing tires, breaks, chain, etc? Or each component has a different millage to “service” it?
I’d of said city computers break the most. I hardly touch my brakes on a ride in the country. Couple of junctions and when I get home
I personally think whatever suits yourself, I don’t race so why not have ease and comfort, on my Ti bike I’ve nukeproof horizon pedals, my winter bike also has the Nukeproof that I’ll swap with Shimano 550’s depending on where I’m going, but I think the most important is shoe make, I have Lake rd and Giro mtb with the Lake being the best since sliced bread, not overpriced too, great to see bft back on the menu on Tuesday ♂️
I have always used Time pedals both for road and commuting. Why? I never have to worry about float. I don’t have to select a specific cleat because Time offer full float based on the pedal design, not the cleat design…so there’s no adjustment to make… Over the last 27 years they have proven low maintenance and light weight. Currently rocking a pair of Carbon Xpresso 10’s on my road machine and the standard ATAC Alium pedals on my urban bike.
Great video -packed with useful information. Looks nice this time of the year
Which is the best platform to buy second hand road bike for professional racing in India?
Look pedals are very often presented as pedals more suited to lighter riders, I’m still a little confused as to why that is:)
Wow what a great video i use MTB pedals on my road bike and no issues here
I changed from a polar he (178 top rate) to a garmin edge. He top now 164. I’m 61 years old. Why this difference
Following up from the question about cleats, how do you know when to replace your pedals? (specifically Shimano 6800 carbon ones in my case)
So GCN says there’s only 2 makes and models of pedal that you can talk about.
It was inevitable that Shimano would be the main feature of it all. Not a mention of Look, who invented the road clip-in pedals. It’s the same every time.
GCN has become the soap box, for the mainstream bicycle industry, and then only for the ones that pay enough.
Double sided pedals so I can wear my tennis shoes for commuting and then clip in when going for a longer ride.
To be able to walk on bike shoes i recently got. the Look S track ti for one of my Road bikes-they are superb-much better than the xtr with twice as much Space to stand on.Also very easy to fit.
I can vouch for speedplays, they really helped my confidence in using clipless pedals for the first time, I love that you can adjust the float to your preference but like James said the cleat C-Clip does loosen quickly from new. Also worth mentioning they are a pain to maintain as you have to buy a specific grease gun and grease to refill the pedal body every couple of months. Apart from that I still love them, and you’ll beat every SPD user of the lights 😉
Dang! I ride Look Keo Max 2 and I have been living as a Man and not a little man or a woman….lol
On a serious note, I have ridden Shimano and Time road pedals and have broken the cleats on both. I have been on Look and have not broken one yet and getting at least a year out of a set of cleats. For Mountain biking I run nothing but Shimano, they take a beating and just keep working
completely disagree with your assessment of the lack of adjustability with SPD cleats. currently running 2mm of stack on my left cleat,
Listening to James is so interesting, would love to meet the guy and have a fit from him
First of all, watching James I started to get serious about my bike fit. I owe you a beer!
I have a bad right knee (fractured meniscus) and a right ankle with semi-broken ligaments as history. I ride Candy 7 pedals on both road and CX bikes, and same sistem from Crank Brothers but on different pedals on the XC bike. What floats my boat is the super smooth decoupling. Sometimes my ankle gets pretty painful and I simply crashed standing still, unable to unclip from the Shimano SPD system. Never had I ridden clipless, I opted for a MTB system first, Shimano’s, and after a few serious glorious unclipping accidents while standing still I moved to Crank Brothers, or the “eggbeater system“ as James calls it.
Float is 15-20 degrees, not a problem, the foot finds it’s best position and I got a pretty good fit after reading and experimenting with cleat position. As I have a broad pelvis and inherently the feet are more apart than the average I also use pedal axle spacers. James will freak out as they are 20 mm wide each side. Experimented and found this was perfect as no more knee pain while pedaling hounts me.
Please take into account that I made only one modification at the time and took the time to observe the results.
Longest distance ridden in a day with just the normal discomfort of being in the saddle at 10 degress Celsius the warmest, was 242 km just 2 months ago.
I love my Candy 7 pedals + carbon sole shoes. I am thinking about moving to road specific pedals and cleats, but I need a super easy to disengage system as the ankle can be silent while pedaling along, even at high power and hurt like hell at the slighest lateral movement when it has to overcome the unclipping forces.
I do not feel the pedal through the sole of the shoes or any related discomfort with the “eggbeater system“ as the Candy 7 pedals have a pretty adjustable lateral platform for height of the lateral contact point with the shoe.
The Crank Brothers system may have its flaws, but for the moment it fits my needs quite well.
Oh joy, another set of bike fit experts… Have seen more people out on the road that are badly fitted to their bikes, because they listen to ding dongs like this instead of whats comfortable…. Bike fit doesn’t need to be complex, do what’s comfortable, and use good common sense….. Is what Eddy B used to preach, and it works.
I switched to Shimano SPD from Speedplay and with some Giro with carbon soles mountain bike shoes, maybe there is a little more float but since i’m not racing it ‘s perfect! So much easy to walk and the cleat are more durable.
So called MTB pedals on all my bikes. I can stand and walk easily with the recessed cleat. If you think you will never need to walk into café, shops, any distance following a mechanical, stand and defend yourself, help another person then go for the non-MTB style (you are probably a pro rider). If anyone tells you ‘can’t get the power through MTB style’ you may wish to ask a 90kg Belgian professional cyclo-cross rider! They manage fine.
If bike fit Tuesdays is back Any ideas for occasional fibula head pain after longer/more intense rides? Cheers in advance!
Shimano 5800 Pedals / Giro Apsckx Shoes… Price and function…
Just switched from Time to Shimano SPD SL and cannot believe the difference. Used Time pedals for 20+ years but the latest incarnations are in my opinion the worst they have produced. Several pairs replaced under warranty due to the carbon blades snapping, bearing issues and poor cleat durability. Love the SPD’s, and pleased I made the switch. Great series of videos BTW…
My experience: look pedals have shit bearings-sealing, speedplay too much maintenance for cleats. For now Shimano is best for me (in terms of durability, maintenance…)
If only all bike fitters were like James! Maybe that could be your next big endeavor… DIY… “Bike fit James in a box!” Comes with a James, all the necessary tools for a bike fit, also pizza and beer for afterwards!!
Really good BFT. Wasn’t part of the issue with mtb pedals on road bikes in the past due to the extra flexibility in the old mtb shoes? No longer such an issue as shoe technology has moved on.
ps I use Look pedals on my bikes and am a bit of a ‘lightweight’:-) James spot-on with his assessment of pedal rider match up haha.